If you looking for answers for one or more of three following common BRP clutch related questions, you are on the right place.
What about the clutch bushing?
What about adding the extra clutch plate?
What about my judder spring?
The BRP, overall, has a pretty bulletproof clutch layout. I’ve totally abused mine and it has performed above and beyond my expectations. BUT, some have not had the same results.
Question #1 is the most common. The ’00 through ’01 bikes, and possibly even the new ones, come with the first of two clutch bushing designs. This original bushing (22116-MBN-670) has a large occurrence of seizing up due to lack of lubrication. The updated bushing (22116-MBN-671) has a couple of extra holes, plus an added gallery on it’s inner face. The differences can be seen, if you look carefully, in the picture at right. Notice the gallery machined in the middle.
New and old bushings side by side
Not all bikes see this failure. I have a gazillion off road miles on mine and only swapped it out to have pictures for this page. The bushing is most prone to fail when in gear and stopped with the clutch disengaged, such as at a stop light or abusing it while stuck in a mudhole. It makes sense, as this is the only time the bushing is actually in use. At all other times the inner and outer shafts are both spinning at the same rpm. Symptoms of a toasted bushing are the same as though you have broken a cable.
It’s a cheap part at around 12 bucks U.S., and is a very easy fix if replaced BEFORE it fails. If the bushing fails, chances are that you will be replacing a shaft and the clutch basket, so if you don’t feel lucky, do it now.
Question #2 is more of a performance and durability add on. The first mention that I know of was from the gurus at Summers Racing. They have a long explanation, so check it out. Here’s my short one. The oem clutch pack wears to a overall thickness that is
less than what the clutch basket allows for. The remarkably easy fix is to simply to add another metal plate (22321-KA4-710).
Again, I added this plate only for the pictures in this page, and to be able to talk you guys through it. My clutch had 3 seasons of strictly woods abuse on it and I MAY have been feeling a bit of slip. I believe that I got a more positive bite from the mod, which under the circumstances, makes perfect sense.
Steel disc on diamondplate back
Now for question #3. Several of the groupees have removed their judder springs from the clutch pack, replacing it with another fiber plate. The reason for doing so is to prolong clutch life (I don’t believe it would make a measurable difference)and give a more positive engagement (Maybe). I have not done this mod, and have no intentions of doing so. The judder spring performs the same duties in our BRP as it does in a car. It is a spring that allows for smoother actuation of the clutch, performing it’s duties only when the friction producing components of the clutch begin to engage.
Of those who have admitted on the group to removing the judder, I’d be willing to bet that 50% of them reported either a grabby clutch, an obnoxious squeak on engagement, or both. I’ll leave the decision to do this one up to you.
Ok, there’s the “why?”, and if you’re still awake, we’ll get to the “how”.
These mods are all pretty easy. The judder and extra disc mods need nothing more than 8 and 10mm sockets, while the bushing replacement takes only a bit more. If you are replacing the bushing, order at the same time the large locking nut that holds the clutch center. It is P/N 90236-HA0-000 and is an 18mm nut with a flange around it that is staked in place. You may also want a new oring gasket, P/N 11352-MBN-671, for the clutch cover. I’ve found that it can swell in length and be a pain to reinstall. In a pinch you can cut the excess from the ring at it’s highest point, and use a dab of RTV to seal it.
Plan on 1 steel plate (22321-KA4-710) for the adding of a disc, and another fiber (22201-MW3-960) for the judder removal.
The first step, as with any of the projects I have here, is to make sure you have a copy of the service manual. I’ve said it before, I’ll say it again, this is the bible for your bike! Take a peek in the navbar at left and you’ll find a link for a pdf copy. It’s only there until I get caught for copyright violation, so download it soon.
Clutch cover off with oily rag
One of the easiest things here is what you DON’T have to do. Just clean the area, put the bike on it’s kickstand, and stuff a rag under the side cover to catch any oil as shown in the picture above. This trick also works, if you’re a neat freak like me, for filter changes.
After you’ve cleaned up any leftover road kill and pulled the cover, remove the four bolts that hold the clutch pressure plate in place. It’ll be the bolt, washer, and a spring, in that order.
After you’ve removed the four bolts, pull out the pressure plate and clutch pack. Also remove the bearing and the small piece it rides on. Now is a good time to check the plates for wear, warping, and overheating. If the clutch has been overheated, the steel plates will be discolored. A piece of glass can be used to check for warping. The service limits are listed below. Plate “A” is the 6 like fiber discs, plate “B” is the lone fiber disc that the judder spring (the two skinny rings near the bottom, one of which is concave)mates with, and then the 6 steel discs.
Pulling the pressure plate and clutch pack
Plate “A” 3.00mm (.118in)
Plate “B” 2.69mm (.106in)
Steel (checking for warpage) 0.30mm (0.012in)
Chances are, as long as they aren’t warped or blued, the steel discs will be fine. The plate next to the judder will have a groove worn in it.
If all you are intending to do is add the plate or remove the judder, you can skip this next section on replacing the bushing. As I said before, it’s straightforward, easy, and cheap insurance against bushing seizure.
Start the bushing swap by removing the 18mm nut at right. Use a small punch or Dremel to remove the portion that is pushed into the keyway. Be sure not to let any metal debris or grindings fall into the gearbox. Stuffing shop towels around the basket will help keep contaminates out.
The simplest way to remove the nut is with an impact gun. Next is to find a partner to hold in the rear brake with the bike in 1st gear. Another method is to purchase or make a basket holder, which is usually a large pair of ViseGrips
Playing orthodontist, but more gentle!
with two fingers that grab the grooves in the clutch hub. If you were to remove the entire sidecover, you could put a penny in the teeth of the clutch gear, locking it in place. Don’t be tempted to stick a large screwdriver into the basket and the four threaded lugs that held the pressure plate. You will break them!
Remove the nut, cone washer, and flat washer. The hub will now pull out of the way. The bushing will either be exposed on the mainshaft or still within the hub. Hopefully upon removal, you’ll see no signs of burring or galling of any of the wear surfaces. Slight galling can be removed with emery cloth. For some reason I do not have any pictures of this stage, but it’s simple even without them.
A bit of play in the fit between the large drive gear and basket seems to be normal.
Install the new bushing on the shaft after coating it with a good slime of motor oil or assembly lube. This is important! We don’t want to cook the new bushing before we ever use it! Reinstall the basket and hub, thrust washer, and lock washer. Make sure that the “OUT SIDE” marked on the lock washer is just what it says, facing out. Assure everything is seated and throw the NEW locknut on. Use whatever trick you used to remove it and torque her down to 87lb-ft (118n-m). Stake the nut into the keyway with the punch. The hard part is done!
After everything is all set, coat the new steel disc with oil and install it into the basket. If all you are doing is adding the plate, go ahead and throw the rest of the clutchpack in. If you are also removing the judder, leave it out, along with it’s matching seat and the skinny fiber plate. replace it with a new “A” (22201-MW3-960) plate. Be sure that all the plates have a good coating of oil on them.
One new slick disc
As shown in the picture at right, the last fiber plate installed needs to be offset from the others and installed in the the shallow slots at the top of the basket fingers. Reinstall the throwout bearing and spacer. Check the other side of the bike to make sure that the clutch actuator is in the neutral position to assure the throwout rod is seated properly.
Last plate in offset notches
Finish up the clutch work by installing the springs and bolts. Tighten the bolts to a mere 9lb-ft (12n-m) in a criss-cross pattern, using 2 to 3 steps before arriving at the final torque. Be careful not to over torque these, as the soft basket will break easily. The springs will hold tension and keep them from loosening.
Reinstall the clutch cover, being carefull to assure that the o-ring stays in it’s groove. A few dabs of grease will help it stick in place. Never-Sieze the cover bolts and tighten them down to 9lb-ft (12n-m), again using a criss-cross pattern.
Screw in the cable adjustment on the clutch perch as far as it will go, then adjust free play at the adjustment down on the cases. Do the fine tuning at the perch.
Clean things up with a bit of contact cleaner and you’re done! Thanks to Tommy Deem for his help with the info in this page.